This guide includes
precautions, appropriate treatment of Your CDs, CD change operation,
installation, in the event of difficulties, changing the settings of the
address. Playing a CD while you're driving in a very bumpy road may lead to
skips. This Cd does not scratch or damage the player. The sound level of the CD
is much lower than analog type records or cassettes. Therefore, before
playing a CD, turn the volume all the way then adjust level of gradually turning
the volume after playback begins. Make turning volume up too suddenly, as this
could damage your speakers.
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Wednesday, September 26, 2012
LED Switchback Turn Signals Install Mazda6
By:renny83
I thought I would share my most recent mod, LED switchback turn signals I installed today. I purchased theseLED Switchbacks from eBay since they had the most lit leds I could find. They have 60 Dual Chip White & Amber LEDs. They light up 60 amber and 60 white at a time. I went ahead and took the chance from an eBay seller and Im pretty well pleased how they turned out. The quality of the bulbs is pretty decent. They are very bright even in the daytime and light up well at night. I think they compliment the low beams nicely too.
Installation was pretty easy although I did have to shave some of the base off with a dremel tool to make the bulb fit. The bulb measured just about right at 2 inches. The light housing allows for a max bulb height of 1 7/8 inch so I didn't have to shave very much off. The bulbs came with a pair of 50w 6 ohm resistors with quick connects which are needed in order to prevent hyperflash.
I mounted the resistors right on the struts above the headlights using double sided tape and connecting one side to a blue wire (or light blue) and the other side to a black ground wire. The wires are easy to get to if you pull back some of the tape connecting them on either side of where the main headlight connector is. The driver side is easy to get to but the passenger side will require you to remove the two screws holding down the coolant reservoir. I wrapped everything with electrical tape when I finished. Heres where I installed them.
Here are some pics in the day...Looks brighter but the picture didnt capture too well here
And then at night...
Only switchbacks on
The camera makes it look more blue at night...
And with oem hid headlights on...
Blinkers...
Added Pictures showing amber signals with OEM HID headlights on
And Here is also a video I made to show in action
I thought I would share my most recent mod, LED switchback turn signals I installed today. I purchased theseLED Switchbacks from eBay since they had the most lit leds I could find. They have 60 Dual Chip White & Amber LEDs. They light up 60 amber and 60 white at a time. I went ahead and took the chance from an eBay seller and Im pretty well pleased how they turned out. The quality of the bulbs is pretty decent. They are very bright even in the daytime and light up well at night. I think they compliment the low beams nicely too.
Installation was pretty easy although I did have to shave some of the base off with a dremel tool to make the bulb fit. The bulb measured just about right at 2 inches. The light housing allows for a max bulb height of 1 7/8 inch so I didn't have to shave very much off. The bulbs came with a pair of 50w 6 ohm resistors with quick connects which are needed in order to prevent hyperflash.
I mounted the resistors right on the struts above the headlights using double sided tape and connecting one side to a blue wire (or light blue) and the other side to a black ground wire. The wires are easy to get to if you pull back some of the tape connecting them on either side of where the main headlight connector is. The driver side is easy to get to but the passenger side will require you to remove the two screws holding down the coolant reservoir. I wrapped everything with electrical tape when I finished. Heres where I installed them.
Here are some pics in the day...Looks brighter but the picture didnt capture too well here
And then at night...
Only switchbacks on
The camera makes it look more blue at night...
And with oem hid headlights on...
| This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. |
Blinkers...
Added Pictures showing amber signals with OEM HID headlights on
And Here is also a video I made to show in action
Instructions on how to change factory HID bulbs
By:jaysmazda6
Take the front wheel off, undo all the fender liner clips in the wheel well, and screws under the fog light area. This will allow you to pull the fender liner back.
You will be able to see the low beam head light area, unscrew the dust cap and you have access to the hid bulb
To take out the hid bulb, twist the hid bulb plug counter clockwise, then pull towards the rear of the car. There is a metal clip that holds the bulb in, press the two metal tabs towards forward, and that will release the hid bulb
I hope this helps out who ever is interested in changing out their HID's vs. going to the stealership like the owners manual states or removing the front bumper and headlight assembly.
Take the front wheel off, undo all the fender liner clips in the wheel well, and screws under the fog light area. This will allow you to pull the fender liner back.
You will be able to see the low beam head light area, unscrew the dust cap and you have access to the hid bulb
To take out the hid bulb, twist the hid bulb plug counter clockwise, then pull towards the rear of the car. There is a metal clip that holds the bulb in, press the two metal tabs towards forward, and that will release the hid bulb
I hope this helps out who ever is interested in changing out their HID's vs. going to the stealership like the owners manual states or removing the front bumper and headlight assembly.
Install HID Headlights & Foglights with Relay Harness
From: NCMAZDA6
I just installed my HID Headlight and Foglight kits today and thought I would take the time to show anyone out there that may not know how to get the bumper off and headlights out exactly how to do it. Total install time took me a good 4 hours or so. Some of you guys put these in without the relay harness and that's fine if it works for you. But there's no way I'm trusting something electrical that costs $40 with my electrical system's wiring. So I installed the relay harnesses to isolate the HID kits from the car's systems so if there's ever a problem with the kit, I don't have to worry about burning up anything important. Anyhow here we go.
The first step is to remove the front bumper. Open the hood and there will be several push tabs, 2 phillips screws and two bumpers. Remove those. I put little green dots next to the tabs and screws.
Next, I taped up the headlight and fenders to keep from accidentally scratching the paint.
Turn the wheel all the way right and take out the 4 screw/push tabs as well as the screw at the top of the bumper. The screw is not pictured but I put a green dot just below where it should be.
This shot shows where the screw at the top of the bumper is.
Next, take out all the screws along the bottom of the bumper at the front edge. I didn't take a pic, but you can't miss them all. They hold on the under body shield.
Once all the screws and tabs are out, start at one end of the bumper and carefully pull the end away from the car. There are little clips that hold the bumper there and under the headlight. you will not break them...just don't pull too hard or the whole bumper will come off and you may scratch something.
Also, before the bumper can come off all the way, you will need to disconnect the foglight harnesses and marker lights from the bumper. When said and done, it looks like this.
Now that the bumper is off, set it aside. I put sheets on the ground to protect the paint.
Next, I had to find a good place to install the ballasts. I started with the foglights and decided to mount them on the bumper support. I predrilled the holes and using the foam tape that came with them, stuck and screwed to the bumper.
Now, for the headlights, it is much easier if you just remove the whole headlight assembly. It's just 6 silver bolts and 1 phillips screw for each one. The bolts are highlighted in green.
Bolt and pushtab at the fender end.
2 bolts at the inside of the headlight
here, there are 2 bolts and the philips screw. Remove the bolt and screw from the black plastic piece and remove the piece. It's got a pin that I assume aligns the headlight into proper position. There's also a 2nd bolt at the bottom
The last bolt is under the bottom of the headlight. Remove this. Then gently slide the light to the front of the car. You will have to unplug the headlight and high beam connector before you can remove it completely.
Then you have this (passenger side)
To install the headlight bulbs, there's a silver cover that must be removed to get to the light. Once the light is installed, you will need to drill a hole in the cover to run the wires through. The DDM bulbs come with a "grommet" that you can pull through the hole to seal it up. There's also 4 wires in this "grommet", two for the bulb, and two for power connection to your headlight. I cut the terminals off and removed the extra wires and sealed up the grommet with electrical tape. I would have used silicon had I had some.
Now for the ballast. The OEM HIDs have the ballast mounted on the bottom of the headlight. There's an obvious mounting point. So this is where mine went as well. I used the foam tape to hold it in, then I used 1/2" panhead screws to mount it. I would not predrill the holes since the shavings will then end up in your headlight. It's just plastic and the screws go right through.
Now for the wiring. I used the accessory Relay harness from DDM, like I said ealier, I trust this way more than I do just plug and play. There are 4 wires/connectors that come from the relay. You have a Battery wire (red), the switch wires for the relay (gray/black with a 9006 connector) Output to each ballast, and ground. I connected both relay power wires together and connected them to an 8 AWG wire with a MAXI fuseholder to the battery.
The Gray/Black connectors I connected to the headlight wires (red +, black -)
and at the foglight I connected to the red/white wire for + and just grounded the negative. I put my grounds right next to the fog light ballasts just in case you wondered.
In the pictures you can see that I just attached the relays to the main harness running behind the bumper and zip strapped all the extra wire up. I did have to extend the two wires going to the other sided ballasts, i just used 16 AWG Stinger speaker wire and butt connectors. I then loomed both wires and ran them across the top of the bumper to the other side. The passenger side is easier just because all you have to connect is the ground wires for the ballasts and plug it up. I thought I had pics of this too, but I am wrong. Sorry, but you'll get it I also used a bunch more zip straps to tie the wires up better than in the pics. I wrapped the OEM bulb connectors in electrical tape to protect them and tied them up as well.
The two red wires are the ones connected to the 8 awg I ran from the battery. Be sure to fuse this as well. Anyhow, once you are done, putting it back together is cake and you are ready to go. I hope this helps someone that my not have been sure about what to do. If you have any questions, please ask. I know there are some things I may have missed but I think this gets most of it.
The Final result:
Without Fogs about 15 feet from the door:
With Fogs:
Without Fogs:
With Fogs:
Without Fogs on the road:
With Fogs:
My LED puddle lamps I also installed.
I just installed my HID Headlight and Foglight kits today and thought I would take the time to show anyone out there that may not know how to get the bumper off and headlights out exactly how to do it. Total install time took me a good 4 hours or so. Some of you guys put these in without the relay harness and that's fine if it works for you. But there's no way I'm trusting something electrical that costs $40 with my electrical system's wiring. So I installed the relay harnesses to isolate the HID kits from the car's systems so if there's ever a problem with the kit, I don't have to worry about burning up anything important. Anyhow here we go.
The first step is to remove the front bumper. Open the hood and there will be several push tabs, 2 phillips screws and two bumpers. Remove those. I put little green dots next to the tabs and screws.
Next, I taped up the headlight and fenders to keep from accidentally scratching the paint.
Turn the wheel all the way right and take out the 4 screw/push tabs as well as the screw at the top of the bumper. The screw is not pictured but I put a green dot just below where it should be.
This shot shows where the screw at the top of the bumper is.
Next, take out all the screws along the bottom of the bumper at the front edge. I didn't take a pic, but you can't miss them all. They hold on the under body shield.
Once all the screws and tabs are out, start at one end of the bumper and carefully pull the end away from the car. There are little clips that hold the bumper there and under the headlight. you will not break them...just don't pull too hard or the whole bumper will come off and you may scratch something.
| This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. |
Also, before the bumper can come off all the way, you will need to disconnect the foglight harnesses and marker lights from the bumper. When said and done, it looks like this.
Now that the bumper is off, set it aside. I put sheets on the ground to protect the paint.
Next, I had to find a good place to install the ballasts. I started with the foglights and decided to mount them on the bumper support. I predrilled the holes and using the foam tape that came with them, stuck and screwed to the bumper.
Now, for the headlights, it is much easier if you just remove the whole headlight assembly. It's just 6 silver bolts and 1 phillips screw for each one. The bolts are highlighted in green.
Bolt and pushtab at the fender end.
2 bolts at the inside of the headlight
here, there are 2 bolts and the philips screw. Remove the bolt and screw from the black plastic piece and remove the piece. It's got a pin that I assume aligns the headlight into proper position. There's also a 2nd bolt at the bottom
The last bolt is under the bottom of the headlight. Remove this. Then gently slide the light to the front of the car. You will have to unplug the headlight and high beam connector before you can remove it completely.
Then you have this (passenger side)
To install the headlight bulbs, there's a silver cover that must be removed to get to the light. Once the light is installed, you will need to drill a hole in the cover to run the wires through. The DDM bulbs come with a "grommet" that you can pull through the hole to seal it up. There's also 4 wires in this "grommet", two for the bulb, and two for power connection to your headlight. I cut the terminals off and removed the extra wires and sealed up the grommet with electrical tape. I would have used silicon had I had some.
Now for the ballast. The OEM HIDs have the ballast mounted on the bottom of the headlight. There's an obvious mounting point. So this is where mine went as well. I used the foam tape to hold it in, then I used 1/2" panhead screws to mount it. I would not predrill the holes since the shavings will then end up in your headlight. It's just plastic and the screws go right through.
Now for the wiring. I used the accessory Relay harness from DDM, like I said ealier, I trust this way more than I do just plug and play. There are 4 wires/connectors that come from the relay. You have a Battery wire (red), the switch wires for the relay (gray/black with a 9006 connector) Output to each ballast, and ground. I connected both relay power wires together and connected them to an 8 AWG wire with a MAXI fuseholder to the battery.
The Gray/Black connectors I connected to the headlight wires (red +, black -)
and at the foglight I connected to the red/white wire for + and just grounded the negative. I put my grounds right next to the fog light ballasts just in case you wondered.
In the pictures you can see that I just attached the relays to the main harness running behind the bumper and zip strapped all the extra wire up. I did have to extend the two wires going to the other sided ballasts, i just used 16 AWG Stinger speaker wire and butt connectors. I then loomed both wires and ran them across the top of the bumper to the other side. The passenger side is easier just because all you have to connect is the ground wires for the ballasts and plug it up. I thought I had pics of this too, but I am wrong. Sorry, but you'll get it I also used a bunch more zip straps to tie the wires up better than in the pics. I wrapped the OEM bulb connectors in electrical tape to protect them and tied them up as well.
The two red wires are the ones connected to the 8 awg I ran from the battery. Be sure to fuse this as well. Anyhow, once you are done, putting it back together is cake and you are ready to go. I hope this helps someone that my not have been sure about what to do. If you have any questions, please ask. I know there are some things I may have missed but I think this gets most of it.
The Final result:
Without Fogs about 15 feet from the door:
With Fogs:
Without Fogs:
With Fogs:
Without Fogs on the road:
With Fogs:
My LED puddle lamps I also installed.
MAZDA6 2003-04 Part and Service Manual
2004 Mazda RX-8 Owner manual
Mazda Drivers Assurance Plan
Check out www.mymazda.com,
the website dedicated to you.
Manage your maintenance records,
receive valuable offers, see the latest
accessories, and much more!
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In addition to all the other great
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of mind, our Emergency Roadside
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call away, 24 hours a day, 365
days a year, call 1-800-866-1998
Mazda ‘’bumper-to-bumper”
Limited Warranty
We design and build every Mazda
to give you driving pleasure now
and far down the road. We’re so
confident in our quality that we
cover the entire vehicle against
defects in materials and workmanship.
for 48 months or 50,000 miles, whichever comes first Mazda Service Transportation Solution Being without your Mazda may put a crimp in your day, if you do ever have to take your Mazda in for repairs don’t worry, you’re covered. With the Mazda Transportation Solution, you will be given a loaner car at no charge when your Mazda vehicle is in for warranty repairs. For all the details, see your Mazda Dealer get here
for 48 months or 50,000 miles, whichever comes first Mazda Service Transportation Solution Being without your Mazda may put a crimp in your day, if you do ever have to take your Mazda in for repairs don’t worry, you’re covered. With the Mazda Transportation Solution, you will be given a loaner car at no charge when your Mazda vehicle is in for warranty repairs. For all the details, see your Mazda Dealer get here
2009 Mazda6 owners manual
this is 2009 Mazda6 owners manual you can get information from here, before you use it hope carefully. read the section step by step.
wach from their website here
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